Wedding inspiration from the 1920s

As I described in an earlier blog post, we are undergoing a project to inventory our entire collection of dresses from the 1920s. Many themes pop out at us as we are going through the drawers. In fact, the drawers themselves seem to be organized by color. In the first few drawers we have found a number of wedding dresses as well as dresses that could provide inspiration for today’s brides. A couple of the dresses have the full-skirted style known as the “robe de style” although most are the more typical cylindrical silhouette, so closely identified with the decade. There is also an almost complete lack of lace although there is plenty of silk satin and beading. We hope you enjoy the photo gallery!

Beaded evening dress of cream satin and chiffon, American, late 1920s, KSUM 1983.1.341.

Beaded evening dress of cream satin and chiffon, American, late 1920s, KSUM 1983.1.341.

Detail of neckline on beaded evening dress of cream satin and chiffon, American, late 1920s, KSUM 1983.1.341.

Detail of beading on evening dress of cream satin and chiffon, American, late 1920s, KSUM 1983.1.341.

Detail of beading on evening dress of cream satin and chiffon, American, late 1920s, KSUM 1983.1.341.

Fairy-like robe de style wedding dress, KSUM 1989.59.1.

Waist detail showing artificial flowers and belt, on ‘robe de style’ wedding dress, KSUM 1989.59.1.

Front view of silk satin wedding dress shown without the train, KSUM 1983.1.334.

Three quarter front view of silk satin wedding dress shown with the train, KSUM 1983.1.334.

Back view of silk satin wedding dress showing the train embroidered in silk, KSUM 1983.1.334.

Detail showing hem of silk satin wedding dress, KSUM 1983.1.334.

Evening dress of silk chiffon trimmed with silver and crystal bugle beads, KSUM 1983.1.330

Evening dress of silk chiffon trimmed with silver and crystal bugle beads, KSUM 1983.1.330

Detail of beading on evening dress of silk chiffon, KSUM 1983.1.330

Robe de style wedding dress, KSUM 1983.1.309.

Waist detail showing ribbonwork on wedding dress, KSUM 1983.1.309.

Detail at hem showing ribbonwork on wedding dress, KSUM 1983.1.309.

Sara Hume, Curator/Associate Professor

Snaps, and hooks and eyes, and more snaps

As fashionable silhouettes change  it sometimes takes a while for dressmaking techniques to adapt to the new styles. An example of this is this 1921 wedding dress. The elegant, draped exterior of the garment gives no hint of the complex dressing required.

It has the 1920’s youthful look, the bust and waist are de-emphasized and the arms and lower legs are exposed. But the construction of this dress is still is very similar to the way dresses were made in the mid-teens. A wide waist tape still anchors the dress in place and layers of fabric still  wrap around the body. Below are step-by-step images of mounting the dress.

The dress on the hanger.

Curator, Sara Hume, starting to get the layers in place before fastening the multitude of closures.

The waist tape has been closed with hooks and eyes and the net under bodice had been snapped closed. You can see there is a snap on the waist tape that the skirt will attach to.

Sara secured the the skirt to waist tape and the side of the bodice.

Bringing the front bib across the body.

Here is a view of the side snaps. Both rows of snaps are on the exterior of the seam so when connected they are hidden, as if in a seam.

Fastening the side snaps.

The front bib snaps at the shoulder to the back bodice.

Finally, the train hooks and snaps to the shoulder.

Joanne Arnett
Curatorial Assistant